Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Coin Case Prototype

I am working on a coin case design.  We do not use many coins around here, so I had to do some Google research.  I found a few designs and picked what I like about each one.  Here is the start of my test design.   As I was starting to put it together,  I am already noticing changes that I will have to make to the final design. Still tweaking it!

13 comments:

  1. Dig the shape of this case! I had a question for you on that snap closure you use. I'm looking for a durable made one with a longer post. The ones I found are to short and won't go threw thick leather. Ohio Travel Bag? Thanks for your help!

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  2. How thick of leather are you want to pierce? The largest post that I use will go through at least 8-9oz leather. I would try Springfield leather company before Ohio Travel bag. Good luck.

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  3. I'm using 6-7oz leather on some keyfobs and folding over the end to wrap around the brass clip/snap for keys. I'm having a hard time embedding the snaps male side to meet. I'll definitely try Springfield though!! Thanks for the help!!

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  4. Was also wondering what kind of sealer you would use on a project like the coin pouch after dying or antiquing to keep the leather feel soft & pliable. I've been using the super sheen eco for my sealer and the leather tends to be real stiff from the the Fiebing's black dye. Thanks for the help!!!

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  5. My finish or sealer depends on the project. I do have to ask you if you oil your projects after tooling or manipulating your leather?

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  6. Oil after tooling? No, I go straight to dye.. Im pretty new at this so I'm goin off of advice, and trial/error.. I take it maybe Neatsfoot oil after tooling before dying?? Thanks again for the advice!! I need it!!!

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  7. When you carve and tool a piece of leather, it loses some moisturizing properties. The reason you oil is to reintroduce some oils back into the leather to help give it some 'body' back. The oil applied and allowed to settle in will give you some of that smooth and flexible finish. Just think about when you wash you hands constantly and they dry out. As for what oil? Well, for me it depends. I use more Extra Virgin Olive Oil than Neatsfoot oil. What it depends on is the brand of leather that I am using, which will determine the oil that I will apply. The main reason is that Neatsfoot oil will cause the leather to darken a bit. If you are using black dye.....well it is a no brainer. If you use lighter dyes, you don't want to start with a darker shade. I hope this helps.

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  8. Oh yeah this helps a lot!!! I figure I was missing a step with the tooled wallets I've made being so stiff without the oil before dying. EVOO as in cooking oil huh? Gotta try that one on the next project! I've got some 6-7oz single should leather that I'm working with if that matters at all which it sounds like it does. Thanks again for the help!!

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  9. EVOO yup! I get a big bottle at Wally mart. I didn't use oil on this project because it is a prototype, but normally I would. I always suggest that you try anything on a scrap of leather first until you get a sense of how your receipes work. Good luck!

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  10. I tried the EVOO on a stamped scrap piece of leather and I'm definitely digging the tun out! Has kind of a antique to it. As far as a sealer, would the eco super sheen work or the acrylic resolene? The resolene seems to be a little tacky and the super sheen wears pretty quick on the inside of my wallets I've done after a few weeks. Thanks again!

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  11. I don't use Eco product much anymore. I am a fan of Fiebings all the way. I used to use the A/R for a recipe for my edges, but that is it for me. I am using either Bee Natural RTC finish or LCI Clear-Lac for my sealer. It just depends on the job that what type of exposure my projects will get.

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  12. Have to check that stuff out for sure! I need a super durable sealer that will last for years on my wallets and belts. I think my customers put them through hell with skateboarding and riding motorcycles.... Thanks for the tip's!!!

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