Saturday, March 23, 2013

Top Seam, Liner, Emblem and Phone Pocket

Something that I haven't done before, but I saw once in a book. I decided to place a trim piece around the ring of the bag. I skived down by hand the strips since I will be needed to glue and fold them over. Once the glue settled and they were attached, I sewed them down to created an invisible seam. Thank God I have a lovely wife who can sew.....I mean like Peter Main quality. After begging a bit, she made me custom liner for this bag. It fit perfectly the first time! I added glue to the rim of the liner making sure not to allow the pieces stick together. Once the glue became tacky, I carefully attached it to the rim of the bag, which also had glue attached. And, I do mean carefully. Here is the liner installed. I am not ready to fold and sew the trim until I get two other items made and ready to install. I wanted to make sure that I created the appropriate maker's tag. I decided to create one with the outline of the Great State of Texas. Since I didn't have a clicker, I had to cut this outline with my swivel knife first and then completed it with a box knife. When I completed the makers emblem, I attached it to the liner. Since the new owner is an iPhone carrier, I made a custom fit pouch for this market bag. After thinning the leather, cutting it down to size and finally gluing/stitching this item was ready to install. Here is a sneak peak to the installation of the maker's mark and cellphone pouch. This project is almost done....stay the course!

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Sewing the Gussets

Now, for the fun part. I really didn't know how to handle this stage, but I thought about it for a day or so. I scratched the edges like the previous parts. Taking my trusty Contact Cement, I applied a couple of coats to the edge and allowed them to become tacky before pressuring the parts together. CAUTION: Work one side at a time, trust me! Another great thing about this leather was how easy it was to manipulate how I need it. I used my groover at the preset level and cut a groove for my stitching holes. After connecting the leather pieces, I used my metal roller to make sure that the sides made good contact. I then took a strip of my poundo board and used it as a backing when I deployed my stitching chisel. Stitching these areas were a bit difficult and probably one of the very few times I wished I had a sewing machine. So here is a sneak peak into what the bag will look like as it starts to take shape. Now, to the corners of the bottom of the bag. Since the pieces were going to be rough on rough, there was no need to rough up the areas. I applied some contact cement to the areas and once they became tacky, they were jointed together. I used my small hammer to make sure that the pieces made good contact. I used my stitching chisel to puncture the holes and stitched away. These were the easiest stitches.

Saturday, March 9, 2013

Sewing the Main Body

I took the 3 main body pieces and prepared them to be sewn together. In case you are wondering, the colors of these pieces are different. The reason is because the picture above is showing the interior suede side. I carefully marked the edges where I will be gluing the middle pieces together before sewing. In order to prepare, I took my disposable knife and exposed some of the blade. I used it to scratch the edge. The reason I did this was so the contact cement had something to grab onto as added security. The glue being used for this project is Master's Contact Cement. After the pieces were situated and glued together, I used my small hammer and carefully hammered the glued areas to make sure that good contact was made. You can also use your burnishing tool or a metal roller. When I was ready to move on, I measured and cut a stitching groove. Here is a good tip. A stitching groove will usually make any hand stitching as straight as a sewing machine. Here is a close up of the finished stitching lines.

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Carrying Straps Cut and Glued

I took my handy dandy Tandy Strap Cutter and carefully cut the straps needed for this project. If you have never cut straps remember that when curled, one strap will be longer than the other. Be careful when planning this measurement and wait to cut. I glued the straps together using Master's Contact Cement and laid out my stitching lines with a ruler and marking awl. I then used my 4-prong punch and laid out my stitching holes. I attached a close up picture of the strap ends. Now let's do some stitching.....